FAQ & glossary

Car buying,
in plain English.

APR, doc fees, GAP insurance, trade-in equity — explained simply. Plus everything about how our service works.

Our Service

We are your personal car advocate. You tell us what you want — make, model, color, budget, must-have features and timeline — and we search the market, negotiate the price, fees, add-ons and trade-in, then walk you through a line-by-line purchase worksheet before anything is signed. You never have to sit in a dealership finance office or meet a private seller alone.

No. The entire deal can be done online and by phone. Some clients like to see or test-drive the car first — we'll arrange that at a time that suits you. Others just want the final delivery to their driveway. Both are completely fine.

Only you. We never accept dealer commissions, spiffs or referral kickbacks, and we never take title or hold inventory. Because the seller never pays us, our only incentive is getting you the best possible deal.

Any make, any model — new or used, from franchise dealers or private-party sellers. From a first Camry to an allocation-only G-Class, we search dealer and private inventory across Houston, Texas and nationwide when it makes sense.

Most clients receive their first negotiated offers within 2–5 business days of their consultation. Hard-to-find or allocation vehicles can take longer; we'll give you an honest timeline on day one.

Absolutely. Send us the listing and we'll audit the offer, negotiate the price and fees, and push back on the trade-in and financing terms. Many clients come to us at exactly this stage.

Yes. We negotiate the capitalized cost (the lease "price"), check the money factor and residual value, and make sure you understand the monthly payment, mileage limit and what you'll owe at turn-in.

We're based in Houston and know this market best, but we source vehicles statewide and nationally, and we coordinate delivery anywhere in the continental U.S.

Fees & Payment

One flat fee, based on the vehicle: $997 for vehicles under $50K, $1,500 for vehicles $50K–$100K, and $2,500 for the luxury & exotic market. No percentages, no hidden charges, and never a dealer commission.

Nothing is paid online. Send us your request and a dedicated concierge will contact you within one business day to go over your search, our flat fee and the next steps — before any work begins.

Nothing is charged when you send a request. Your concierge explains the fee and terms with you directly, in writing, before any work begins.

Simple: you save hundreds more than our fees. Your purchase worksheet shows every line we negotiated — price, fees, trade-in and financing — so the savings are right there in black and white.

Door-to-door delivery is $1.50 per mile based on distance. Use the calculator on our Pricing page for an instant estimate.

Car-Buying Terms, in Plain English

APR (Annual Percentage Rate) is the yearly cost of your car loan, including interest and certain lender fees, shown as a percentage. A lower APR means a lower total cost. Dealers can "mark up" the rate a lender approves you for — we check your APR against credit-union and bank pre-approvals so you never pay extra.

A doc fee is what a dealer charges to prepare the sales paperwork. The amount varies widely from dealer to dealer. It should always be disclosed up front — we flag it on your worksheet and factor it into the out-the-door price when comparing offers.

GAP (Guaranteed Asset Protection) covers the "gap" between what you owe on your loan and what your insurer pays if the car is totaled or stolen. It can be worthwhile with a small down payment or a long loan — but dealers often charge far more for it than your own insurer or credit union. We'll tell you if you need it and where to get it for less.

Trade-in equity is what your current car is worth minus what you still owe on it. If your car is worth $18,000 and you owe $12,000, you have $6,000 of positive equity to put toward your next vehicle. We push back on lowball trade offers so you keep every dollar of it.

Negative equity means you owe more on your loan than the car is worth. Dealers sometimes roll it into your new loan quietly, which makes your next car more expensive. We show you exactly how much is being rolled over and your options for avoiding it.

The out-the-door (OTD) price is the total you'll actually pay: vehicle price plus taxes, title, registration and every dealer fee. It's the only number worth comparing between offers — and it's the number we negotiate.

MSRP is the manufacturer's suggested retail price — the sticker. Invoice is roughly what the dealer paid the manufacturer (before incentives and holdbacks). A good deal usually lands somewhere between the two, depending on demand.

An additional dealer markup — sometimes thousands of dollars — added above MSRP on in-demand vehicles. It's pure dealer profit and almost always negotiable. We remove or reduce it wherever possible.

Extras pre-installed or pre-priced by the dealer: nitrogen-filled tires, VIN etching, paint protection, fabric protection, "appearance packages." They carry huge margins and are usually optional. We identify every one on your worksheet.

Often called an "extended warranty," it's an optional contract that pays for certain repairs after the factory warranty ends. Prices are highly negotiable and coverage varies. We review the contract line by line and tell you plainly whether it's worth it for you.

The lease equivalent of an interest rate. Multiply it by 2,400 to get an approximate APR (0.00250 × 2,400 ≈ 6% APR). Dealers can mark it up just like a loan rate — we check it.

The value a leasing company predicts your car will have at the end of the lease, set as a percentage of MSRP. A higher residual usually means a lower monthly payment.

Tax, Title & License — the government charges on your purchase. In Texas, motor vehicle sales tax is 6.25% of the sales price (less any trade-in credit), plus title and registration fees. These are legitimate, but we verify they're calculated correctly.

Delivery & Paperwork

When negotiations are complete, your purchase worksheet appears in your online portal. You review every line, then approve and e-sign (or upload your signed approval). We send it to the seller to prepare the final contract between you and the dealer.

Yes. For private-party purchases we coordinate the title transfer, lien release (if any), and registration so the paperwork is done correctly and safely.

Before delivery we confirm the vehicle matches your contract — VIN, options, condition, mileage, both keys, and no surprise add-ons — so there are no surprises when it arrives.